Friday, November 19--- Port Said and Cairo, Egypt
The very name of the country is exotic: Egypt. We think of the pyramids, Cleopatra, Moses, one of the first true civilizations in human history. Today, we begin our two-day visit to this ancient land. We find many things we did not expect to see, and many we did.
We come ashore in Port Said, a city that owes its existence to the Suez Canal, which was completed in 1869 with the British government the largest shareholder. Britain exercised political control over Egypt for almost a century after that, but the Egyptians seized control of the canal in 1952. Today, it is one of the busiest shipping routes on the planet.
Port Said itself was heavily damaged in the Six-Day War of 1967, and all but abandoned until 1973, when the canal was re-opened and maritime commerce quickly picked up. Today the city has over 51,000 inhabitants. But few of the passengers will be spending the day here. Our goal is further west.
When we disembark and go to our buses, we are immediately struck by the large amount of trash in the streets. Our guide, a young Egyptian woman named Sawson, apologizes profusely, saying that the city was just wrapping up a big celebration and trash-collecting was running behind. As we rumble through the city streets, it appears they are way behind. But soon we are on a four-lane highway heading south, paralleling the canal.
We are one of a convoy of ten buses on our way to Cairo. Egyptian police have a car to lead the way, and another vehicle in the middle, another at the end. The middle vehicle, a small pickup truck, is right behind our bus, and occasionally it pulls ahead. Our convoy stays in the left lane and if a vehicle pulls alongside us on the right and slows down, the police truck shrieks its siren to keep the natives moving past us. Evidently they are concerned that someone might pull up alongside and attack the bus. Someone speculates that the cops would not be able to stop a car that decides to launch a rocket at us. Sawson tells us that the guys in the trucks, casually fiddling around with their AK-47s, are not even real police officers, but police "soldiers," usually poorly-educated young men who might have been drafted into the regular army and don't have enough education to be trained as real cops. This does not inspire a great deal of confidence.
The police were riding shotgun for us---literally.
Sawson does her best to keep our attention elsewhere. She is very personable and tells us much about her country, and is happy to answer questions. At a toll booth, our driver buys a newspaper and she says it is Egypt's version of USA Today.
Just like back home, Hilary Clinton is on the front page in Egypt.
The ride to Cairo is about 3 hours long. We can see large cargo ships on the canal to our left, and fields being tended by farmers with 18th-century equipment. Most of the homes we see, from isolated farm houses to small villages, are almost primitive, but almost every one has a satellite TV dish. There are a few Egyptian military bases, with large signs saying NO PHOTOS, and we see some tanks on maneuvers in the desert.
Soon we turn west, leaving the canal behind us, and awhile later the outskirts of Cairo are upon us. Cairo has been the capital of Egypt since around 700 AD, and some of the buildings we see look like they haven't been repaired since about that time. In a blur of contrast, we see ultra-modern apartment complexes next to slums, glitzy stores and shopping centers next to places that look as if they had just been bombed last week. Cairo is the largest city in Africa, indeed the largest Muslim city in the world, with nearly 8 million people within the city limits, making it one of the most densely-populated cities in the world. Add in the 10 million people who live in its environs, and metro Cairo has ten percent of the entire population of Egypt. Al-Azhar University, located here, is by some estimates the second-oldest university in the world, opening in 970 AD.
Like everything else in Egypt, going back to antiquity, Cairo depends on the Nile. This most exotic of rivers was the cradle of modern civilization. Predicting the flooding of the Nile led to the development of the first calendar, around 3100 BC, which allowed for an explosion of agricultural development. This in turn led to written numbers and letters, mathematics, geometry, architecture, astronomy, and a complex economic system, all while Europeans were still living in the Stone Age. In spite of its history, when we cross the Nile on a modern bridge, it looks pretty much like the St. Croix back home when we cross from Wisconsin to Minnesota.
On the west bank of the Nile, we are no longer in Cairo, but in the city of Giza. And we can see the pyramids looming ahead of us. In a few minutes, we are there. It is yet another example of how our Hollywood-induced perceptions are jarred by reality: the pyramids are right on the edge of the city. We park behind them and advance on foot to examine these marvelous buildings which have beguiled visitors for thousands of years.
The Great Pyramid, far left, was built around 2560 BC for the pharaoh Khufu.
These structures are truly engineering marvels. About 455 feet tall, the Great Pyramid was built so well that the four sides of its base have an average error of only 58 millimeters in length. The base is horizontal and flat to within 21 millimeters. The sides of the square base are aligned to the four cardinal compass points, within 4 degrees of arc. Modern engineers would be hard-pressed to be that accurate. We would also have a difficult time handling the building materials, even with modern equipment. It is estimated that the Great Pyramid was built with 5.5 million tons of limestone, 8000 tons of granite, and half a million tons of mortar. And it was all built by hand. Not by slaves, as we have all been led to believe, but by paid native workers, who had to have something to do during the months when the Nile flooded the farmlands.
The second pyramid, in the middle of the photo, is the Pyramid of Khafre, the son of Khufu, and it is slightly smaller than the Great Pyramid. Next to that is the Pyramid of Menkaure, which still has a couple of smaller pyramids around it; these were the tombs of the pharaoh's servants and concubines. Menkaure is the only pyramid open to the public, but only one person on our bus decides to go in. (No, it isn't me or Sue. She'd been inside on her visit here with our daughter Kim in 2005.) But we do get an up-close look at this one, along with the camels that were offered for rides by the ever-present vendors. A couple of cops are using camels to patrol the premises.
A short distance away is the Great Sphinx. We are back on the outskirts of Giza to get a view of this structure, and I am surprised by how small it is, compared to the pyramids.
Of course, size is relative. This is the largest monolith statue in the world: 241 feet long, 20 feet wide, 66 feet high. It is commonly thought to have been built around 2550 BC. Nobody really knows for sure, just as nobody knows who it was supposed to represent.
We are not allowed to get too close to the Sphinx, and after a few minutes to take pictures and fend off the souvenir hustlers, we head to the Nile and our luncheon cruise. We board a two-story riverboat and set sail, enjoying a nice buffet, and there is entertainment, with a male "whirling dervish" dancer and a female belly dancer.
These are not the typical dancers Dad might see down in Arizona.
Our vessel was constantly flanked on both sides by Egyptian police boats. If any other boat tried to get close, the cops didn't hesitate to show their submachine guns.
It has been a pleasant cruise on the Nile, but after awhile we're more than willing to board our bus for the trip back to Port Said and the ship. First, there is a stop at a store selling Egyptian art, including parchment paintings, and then we hit the road for real. Unlike the ride here, this time we are not part of a convoy and no cops are in sight. We were told there would be a security officer riding with us, but nobody shows up. Sawson doesn't seem concerned, but night is falling and one would think that this would be somewhat risky. But on we go, and I am able to have a nice chat with our guide about Egyptian and Middle East culture and politics, and she asks many questions about America. At the end of the evening, both of us have benefited from the exchange.
The day has not been as tiring as we might have anticipated, but after all we spent some 6 hours of it sitting on a bus. We are grateful to have been able to see the pyramids, but we can't help comparing exotic but grubby Egypt with the pristine Israel of our previous two days. Tomorrow, we will see Alexandria. Egypt has one more day to favorably impress us.
Saturday, November 20---Alexandria, Egypt
I was particularly looking forward to Alexandria, a city founded by one of history's greatest warriors, Alexander the Great. He intended it to be a city of culture and learning, and its great library, one of the wonders of the ancient world, held thousands of volumes---all of which have been lost. What happened to the library, and to the body of Alexander, has never been determined.
When we come ashore in Alexandria, things look a lot better. The port is beautiful, but when we get into the city itself, it's a lot like Cairo. Our first stop is at Pompey's Pillar, and we get off the bus right by this structure, which was fairly common in both cities.
Mom trekked around Pompey's Pillar and then posed for this shot.
We do some walking through the streets of Alexandria, and this is a common sight: men sitting around, smoking on a hookah, or water pipe. 
We visit a museum and a gift shop, but after nearly four full days of touring our enthusiasm is starting to wane, so nobody is disappointed when it is time to return to the ship. We are all looking forward to the next day, which would be a most welcome day at sea, before our final port of call, Kusadasi, in the nation of Turkey. Some of us wonder if Turkey will be like Egypt; we had all seen enough trash and poverty to last us a long time. But Sue, who has been to Turkey before, assures us it will be different. She will, of course, be proven correct.
Sunday, November 21--- At sea aboard the Pacific Princess
This will be our third and final sea day, and it is most welcome. By now we have developed a pattern to our sea days: church again this morning, as it is a Sunday, with our Kentucky pastor once again doing the honors, followed by ping-pong. This time, a gent from California provides both Dad and me with some stiff competition.
There's more time in the library, and I have another foot treatment from my Portuguese masseuse. Pretty soon it is time to dress for dinner, the second and final Formal Night on board, beginning with a reception to schmooze with the skipper. Our cruise director, JJ King, an Englishman who has been with Princess since 1986, is retiring after this cruise, and we all agree that he is the best cruise director we've seen on any of our voyages. We ask him what he plans to do in retirement, and he says he will be going home to see his grandchildren. Then, displaying his charming British wit, he says he might just go on a cruise.
The last song-and-dance show of the cruise is tonight and once again the troupe puts on a great show. We hit the rack with anticipation for the next day's stop in Turkey.
Monday, November 22--- Kusadasi, Turkey
There wasn't much here besides a sleepy little village, until tourism started picking up. The lure is not Kusadasi itself, but another, much older town several miles inland: Ephesus.
At one time, Ephesus was on the coast as well, but its river port silted up in the third century AD. In its heyday, the city was a cultural and commercial hub in Asia Minor. The cult of Artemis, the Roman goddess of fertility, was centered here. Ephesus was the site of one of the original early Christian churches, and the city was visited often by the Apostle Paul. His letter to the Ephesians is regarded as his finest literary work. It was in Ephesus that the Apostle John wrote his gospel. Tradition says that John spent some of his final years here, along with Mary, the mother of Jesus, and their tombs are nearby.
Our Turkish guide, Burak, is a jocular fellow and puts us at ease immediately, but that is not hard to do, as Kusadasi is beautiful, and as we go inland we see more evidence of why Burak is proud of his country. It is very bountiful, rich in agriculture, a small example of why Turkey is a fast-moving country.
The port of Kusadasi, a fine way to get introduced to Turkey.
Ephesus itself is a remarkable place. Even more remarkable is a souvenir stand where we get off the bus, and I finally see the hat I have wanted to get, a straw fedora. Ten euros later it is in place, and off we go.
The excavated portion of the town---only a small percentage of the place has actually been revealed so far---is something to see. Burak carefully explains the various buildings and describes the architecture and the way people lived in what was obviously a thriving center of trade and culture, two millenia ago. Roman engineering methods were quite advanced for their time, with indoor plumbing, heated tile floors, aqueducts and much more. Especially interesting are the "terraced houses," which have only recently been opened to visitors, and are excellent examples of Roman upper-class homes, right down to the artwork.
The parliamentary house of Ephesus.
A representation of the goddess Artemis.
Feral cats are all over, helping to keep the vermin at bay.
The Temple of Hadrian.
The public toilets were ingeniously designed, if a little short on privacy.
Inside one of the Terraced Houses, currently being excavated by an Austrian archaeological team.
Elaborate paintings and mosaics decorate the walls and floors.
The Library of Celsus, which once held 12,000 scrolls.
Just outside the city, a troupe of Roman re-enactors entertained.
The Great Theater, which seated 25,000 and is still in use.
Returning to Kusadasi, we stroll through their vibrant bazaar; one sign reads "Genuine Fake Watches." The best part of this visit is a stop at a rug store. Turkish rugs are renowned worldwide for their quality, and this family-owned business puts on quite a show for us, with refreshments and a display of truly beautiful rugs from all over the country. They are not cheap, but the merchants love to dicker and more than a few of our group wind up placing orders.
After leaving the bazaar, we stroll through the downtown near the harbor before returning to the ship. Our visit to Turkey has been most pleasant indeed, and we resolve to return here one day and see the magnificent city of Istanbul. For now, Kusadasi and Ephesus have proven more than satisfactory. It's been a good day.
Back on board, we spend some time packing, then head off to one final dinner, one more show---a terrific double bill featuring the English comic and Scots-Irish singer/flutist---and one more night of karaoke, this one even livelier than the last. I get things going with The Beatles' "I Saw Her Standing There," and then Shane, our Australian host, gets all the ladies up to sing "These Boots Are Made for Walking."
Then all the guys do another Beatles tune, "Yellow Submarine." We don't stay too late, but it's a fine way to cap the cruise. We retire for our last night on board. Tomorrow we will disembark in Athens, Greece.
Tuesday, November 23--- Athens, Greece
Our disembarkation from the ship this morning goes well. On a smaller ship, you get to know some crew members by first name---they all wear ID badges, of course, with nationality. We'd gotten exceptional service on this cruise, especially from the two Thais who were our waiters in the main dining room and the Filipino steward who serviced our cabin. Most cruise lines these days will include gratuities for your crew in your overall pricing. They're well worth it. On this cruise, we actually saw two American crew members. Americans aren't often seen on these liners, and one time a line executive told us the reason was that American young people generally don't like to work as hard as is required on these vessels. For a couple of tense minutes it looks like something serious might happen here, but cooler heads prevail and the cabbies retreat. A few minutes later our cabs appear and we are soon whisking through the streets of Athens, bound for the Hera Hotel, near the Acropolis. It's a four-star property and will suit our needs quite nicely. After taking a bit of time to settle in and freshen up, we set out on foot for the Acropolis.
The Acropolis of Athens, viewed from the southwest.
There are about 3 million people living in greater Athens now, and by what we can see it is a bustling metropolis in every way. Thousands of years ago Athens was known as the cradle of democracy. It was a center for the arts, literature and philosophy, home of Plato and Aristotle. Athens has been inhabited continuously for some 7000 years. The Acropolis, the most notable hill in the city, was the site of a fortress in about 1400 BC, and by the time of the fifth century BC, as ancient Athens was achieving the zenith of its power, the Acropolis became a center of worship. Rising nearly 500 feet above sea level, the Acropolis is the site of some of antiquity's most famous surviving buildings.
It takes us about twenty minutes to get to the base of the hill, where we are charged 12 euros each to ascend. It is yet another beautiful day and there are many visitors here, and more than a few large dogs are meandering about, apparently strays, although most have collars. We enter the main area from the western side, through the Propyla, flanked on the right by the Temple of Athena Nike. We notice that many of the buildings are in a process of reconstruction, and signs indicate that this is an international project that has been going on for some time.
The most famous building is the Parthenon. Built in the fifth century BC, it was a temple to the goddess Athena, protector of the city. Also used as a treasury, the building was in its time considered the finest example of a Doric order temple.
The Parthenon, one of antiquity's most famous surviving buildings.
We can't go inside any of the buildings, probably due to the restoration work, so we wander over to the Erechtheion, a temple dedicated to Athena and Poseidon. The most striking part of the structure is the Porch of the Caryatids, six draped female figures serving as support columns on the south side. Each maiden is sculpted different than the rest, and remarkably, engineered so that the slenderest part of the sculpture, the neck, is strong enough to support the weight of the porch roof without losing its aesthetic value.
The Porch of the Caryatids behind us.
Along the way--and it's quite windy at the summit today--we encounter the by-now familiar gamut of foreign travelers. We meet a group of Austrian martial artists, young men and women who are in Greece to compete in the European kickboxing championships. We also run into some people from our ship.
On the southern slope of the Acropolis are two impressive structures, the Odeon of Pericles and the larger Theater of Dionysus Eleuthereus. The Odeon was used for musical contests and as a bad-weather shelter for patrons of the next-door theater. This was the first theater built of stone and the birthplace of Greek tragedy. Many of the great ancient playwrights staged performances here, including Aeschylus and Sophocles. It seats about 17,000.
The view from the Acropolis. At right, the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Behind Arditou Hill at center is Panathinaiko Stadium, which hosted events in ancient times and the 1896 Olympics, the first modern Olympiad.
The Plaka, one of the best bazaars we visited on the trip.
Dad made a new Greek friend at the restaurant.
It's hard to believe, but our great adventure is winding down. We retire early, relaxing with our e-readers and talking about the high points of the trip. There have been many. Perhaps the best, though, was being able to share this as a family. This is our third trip overseas with my parents, and it has been extra-special because they've been with us, sharing in the adventure.
Wednesday, November 24--- Heading home
It's an early wake-up in Athens---3am, which is 7pm Tuesday back home. Fortunately, check-out from the Hera goes smoothly and our cabs are awaiting. The streets of Athens are pretty deserted this early and when our driver gets out on a freeway leading to the airport, he pushes it up to 150kph, which is about 90mph. Sue and I make sure our seat belts are buckled.
The flight to Amsterdam is uneventful, although running a bit late, and for a few minutes it appears we might not make it through customs in time to catch our transatlantic flight home. But the Dutch have been doing this a long time and are very efficient, so we make our gate with time to spare. On the flight home, it's the usual combination of movies, dozing and reading. Fortunately, on this leg the movies are working fine, and I polish off Toy Story 3 and Robin Hood. Our pilot, who says he's from South Dakota and talks with the folksy drawl of Motel 6 pitchman Tom Bodette, happily informs us that it is cold and snowing at our destination, Minneapolis. This news is not exactly greeted with hosannas of praise.
But we make it down safely, and before we know it we are going through customs again and saying goodbye to my folks, who are hustling to catch their connecting flight to Phoenix. I don't envy them another long flight, but I do envy the weather they'll encounter when they land.
By the time we get home it is about 5pm; we'd stopped on the way to get groceries and pick up our Thanksgiving turkey. Our pets, Sophie the Yorkie and our three cats, are overjoyed to see us. Well, Sophie is; the cats, as usual, seem indifferent. By now we've been up almost 24 hours and we will certainly be retiring early.
In the span of 15 days we have flown nearly 9000 miles and cruised over 2500 nautical miles, visited eight countries (including our stops in Holland), taken hundreds of photos and a couple hours of video, made new friends and enjoyed once-in-a-lifetime experiences. It's been a great trip, and we would certainly encourage travelers to visit the Holy Land. Going on a cruise really is the way to go---you don't have to worry about transportation or hotels ashore, you can relax on days at sea, and there's always plenty of food that you've already paid for, so it seems almost free. Will we go back? Maybe someday. I'd certainly like to see Turkey again, particularly the city of Istanbul. And more of the Greek isles, too. On mainland Greece I'd like to visit the city of Sparta and the site of the classic battle of Thermopylae. But those sites are for a future trip. The best thing about a trip overseas is that there's always more to see, always something to look forward to.
Another thing about going overseas---it's good to be home.
