Cruising the Rhine, behind a mask.

 This guest post is by Dave Tindell.

    One of the more memorable vacations Sue and I have taken was a cruise on the Rhine through the heart of Europe in 2006. So, when she told me that we had an opportunity to sail it again, this time on a new ship from AmaWaterways, she didn't have to ask me twice.

Wednesday-Thursday, November 24-25, 2021 -- Wisconsin to Switzerland

    The hardest part of any trip is often getting to where you want to go. For us, it was our standard two-hour drive to the Minneapolis airport, then a cross-the-pond flight to Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam, Netherlands. We had a short layover here before a much shorter flight to Basel, Switzerland, arriving about 6:40am local time on Thursday, which was Thanksgiving Day back home. 

  

    With COVID fears still gripping the transportation industry, not to mention much of America and, apparently, Europe, we had to stay masked throughout the entire trip. Not exactly the most comfortable way to travel, but we made it. Arriving in Basel, we were shuttled from the airport to the AmaSiena, a year-old ship with a passenger capacity of 158. We would be sailing with about half that number, most of us from the States. It would be our first cruise aboard AmaWaterways, and we were in for a treat. 

After some 20 hours of travel, we
were just a little tuckered out 
when we came aboard.

        

    But after checking into our very nice cabin and getting something to eat, we were refreshed enough to begin our exploration of Basel, a city we'd visited briefly on our previous cruise. Rhine cruises generally run from Amsterdam to Basel or the other way; travel upriver on the Rhine from here can be difficult, except for smaller craft. 

    Once we got into the city, it was fun to see the holiday decorations and the open-air market, the first Christmas market we would see in Europe. We'd previously purchased apps from the Swiss government into which we could upload our medical information, such as copies of our COVID immunization records, and sure enough, we had to present them to police at the gates, and remain masked at all times, even though we were outdoors. This would be our first encounter with Europe's increasingly-severe restrictions, but definitely not the last. 

Just before entering the market and masking up.

The streets of Basel were busy,
and Christmas decorations were going up.

The statue is of the Roman officer Lucius
Munatius Plancus, who helped Julius Caesar
found the nearby Roman city of Augusta Raurica
in 44BC. It was the first Roman bastion
on the Rhine. 

     After our exploration of Basel, we returned to the boat and prepared to set sail. The Christmas market had been wonderful, although we didn't buy anything, and we were hopeful that the markets to come along the river would be even better. We capped our day with a delightful Thanksgiving turkey dinner, our first sample of the great food that would quickly become a highlight of our AmaWaterways cruise. Sue took the opportunity to take some photos of the Christmas decorations we'd discovered in our cabin and around the boat.

Friday, November 26 --  Riquewihr, France

    Good weather greeted us for our first stop on the Rhine, the Alsace region of France. This is a picturesque province that has been traded back and forth, usually violently, between France and Germany for centuries, but since World War II it has been solidly French. Our destination was the town of Riquewihr. One of the few Alsatian towns not to sustain war damage, Riquewihr is known for its charming medieval architecture and its wines. We found out that the village's Christmas market would not open till the next day, but we were able to sample some mulled wine at the shop of a gentleman who said he grew up in Thunder Bay, Ontario, not too far from Wisconsin!

    We had a great day in Riquewihr, and even scored some new French hats at a Stetson store!

Saturday, November 27 -- Strasbourg

    The good weather we'd enjoyed in Riquewihr deserted us by the time we came ashore in Strasbourg. It was cold, about 34 degrees F (about 1 above zero C over here) with rain and wind. Our walking tour of the city was a bust, not even worth photographing. The original itinerary called for a short bus ride to Heidelberg, the German city where I was born, and we were looking forward to that as we planned the cruise, but now the passengers were informed that not only did Heidelberg require the usual vaccination certificates, but a negative COVID test taken within 24 hours of entering the city. And, we were told, time within the Christmas markets would be limited to perhaps 30 minutes. 

    Needless to say, the Heidelberg outing didn't have many takers. Sue and I had visited the city on our first Rhine cruise in 2006, but we decided to skip it this time, under the circumstances. A few people went, and when they returned to the boat their reviews of the excursion were decidedly negative. There was a rather ominous feeling among the passengers about what was going on. We were all aware of the news reports coming out of South Africa a week or two earlier about a new variant of the virus making its way to Europe, and the governments here seemed to be proactive to the extreme. 

    Ama did what it could, bringing a musical troupe on board for an evening concert, which was well-received: French musical magic. After the show we retired to our cabin, hoping that the next day, on the German side of the Rhine in Speyer, would be better.

Sunday, November 28 -- Speyer and Rudesheim

   Speyer is one of the oldest cities in Germany, tracing its founding to a Roman military camp in 10 BC. Underneath the high altar of the cathedral are the remains of eight Holy Roman Emperors and German kings. 

      We came ashore under reasonable weather and took part in a walking tour of the town, informative and picturesque, as these always are, but the Christmas market was a bit of a bust, with most vendors having chosen not to challenge the increasingly draconian German restrictions.

    Back aboard the AmaSiena, we set sail for the town of Rudesheim, where we would sample its famous coffee, and after an overnight visit, hike the hills above the river. Fortunately, the boat crew came through with yet another fabulous meal, highlighted by a dessert of genuine German apfelstrudel!

    

Monday, November 29 -- Rudesheim, the Rhine Gorge and Lahnstein Castle

    We had a good-weather morning awaiting us as we came ashore once again in Rudesheim, which is at the upriver entrance to the famous Rhine Gorge. A six-mile hike through the vineyard above the town was a great way to get some exercise and enjoy the scenery.

Ehrenfels Castle, built in the early 13th
century, was damaged in the Thirty Years' War
and finally finished off by the French in 1689.

The Niederwald Monument was built to celebrate
the unification of Germany. Kaiser Wilhelm I,
fresh off his defeat of France in the Franco-Prussian
War, laid the cornerstone in 1871. 

Across the river, the city of Bingen. The river
that bisects the city is the Nahe. 

    Refreshed by the hike, we came back on board as the boat prepared to sail down the Rhine Gorge. Officially known as the Upper Middle Rhine Valley, this is a 40-mile-long stretch of the Rhine between Rudesheim and Koblenz that is home to numerous fairy-tale villages and imposing castles, about 40 of them, many still showing damage from the Thirty Years' War (1618-48). It's one of the biggest attractions for a Rhine cruise, and it didn't disappoint.

    

    One of the most famous sights in the Gorge is the Lorelei, a 433-foot-tall slate rock on the right bank. The heavy currents, combined with a small waterfall, created a murmuring sound that entranced sailors from Roman times to today. The rock actually produces a faint echo. It's inspired artists, songwriters and musicians for centuries. 

    It was a delightful voyage, but the day wasn't done yet. After dinner we came ashore and trekked to Lahneck Castle, above the riverside town of Lahnstein. Built in the early 13th century, the castle was home to many significant battles and events over the centuries. In 1312, legend has it that the last surviving Knights Templar, rejecting an order by Pope Clement V to disband, made their last stand in the castle against the forces of the Archbishop of Mainz. More than 500 years later, a 17-year-old English girl, Idilia Dubb, was visiting the castle with her family in 1851. Exploring the high tower alone, the wooden floor collapsed under her and she couldn't escape. Her family couldn't hear her cries because the tower was surrounded by an insurmountable wall nearly 10 feet high. Her body wasn't discovered until 1860. The castle was purchased in 1907 by a German admiral and his family has owned it ever since. 

    Our visit was a spooky one, even without the stories about the Knights and the girl. 

    It had been a long day but a very good one, and we retired on board, looking forward to our visit the next day to the city of Cologne. 

Sunday, November 30 -- Cologne

    More dreary weather greeted us this morning in Cologne. The guide for our walking tour was a Boston native who'd moved here to be with his German girlfriend, and he was entertaining as well as informative. Our tour ended with the massive Cologne Cathedral, which was begun in 1248 but not finished until 1880. It is the tallest twin-spired church in the world at 515 feet, and is Germany's most popular landmark, averaging 20,000 visitors a day.

Despite the dreary weather and a citywide requirement
to wear masks in public, even outside, the streets
of Cologne were busy.

The Ostermann Monument, depicting characters
from the lyrics of Cologne songwriter
Willi Ostermann.

Behind Great St. Martin Church are the statues of
Tunnes and Schal, representing the two "halves" of 
the city: short, working-class Tunnes, from the east bank
of the Rhine, and tall, elegant Schal from the west. Visitors rub 
their noses for luck. 

Cologne was a Roman outpost two millenia ago,
and this road once knew the tread of Caesar's soldiers.

The St. Agilulfus Altar, one of many
inside the Cathedral.

The stained-glass windows are some of
the Cathedral's most outstanding features.
Many were removed during the war to
prevent damage during the heavy bombing
of the city.

The Crucifix of Bishop Gero, from
the 10th century; it is one of the 
largest crucifixes in the world.

The most famous object in the Cathedral:
the Shrine of the Three Kings, said to
contain the remains of the three wise men
who attended the baby Jesus. The shrine was
opened in 1864 and contained the bones
of three adults, but their provenance couldn't
be established with the technology of the time.

Tomb of Archbishop Walram of Juelich, in the
Chapel of St. Michael, one of 27 crypts in the
Cathedral.  

After the Cathedral, we walked back to the boat
through the three Christmas markets. Despite warnings
from our guide that we should be prepared to display
our medical credentials on our phones--the modern 
version of the classic "Show me your papers, please"--
we didn't see any police or other officials, as we had
in Basel.

The only time either of us had to show
our credentials was when I stopped to 
buy a bratwurst. It cost 4 1/2 euros
and wasn't as good as a brat from
Louie's Finer Meats back home. 

It cost half a euro to use the public
restroom in the nearby train station.

    It had been a long day, and the Christmas markets, while the most active we'd yet seen, didn't have anything that jumped out at us and said, "Buy me!" (Or, in German, "Kauf mich!") Back aboard the boat, we joined our fellow passengers and crew in receiving COVID tests from German doctors and nurses. Everybody was negative. 

    After another fine dinner, we settled in for the long haul to Amsterdam. We would arrive the next midday, and would be flying home the day after. The weather was again expected to be foul, and the combination of the dreary skies, rain and relentless restrictions was beginning to wear on the passengers. There was much talk of how anxious people were to get back to the States. But the best, in some ways, was yet to come.

Monday, December 1 -- Amsterdam

    The scenery along the Rhine as it flows into Holland isn't much to speak of, as the country is almost flat as a pancake. Indeed, the highest point in the country, the Vaalserberg in the extreme southeast, is only a little over 1,000 feet high, less than the higher hills in Wisconsin, which is not exactly mountainous. After entering the Netherlands, the Rhine splits into several branches. We followed the Waal to a canal past Utrecht to Amsterdam, arriving around noon. 

      Although the weather was once again cruddy, we joined a walking tour of the old section of the city. Somewhat to our disappointment, the infamous De Wallen, the red light district, was shut down thanks to the restrictions imposed by the Dutch government. In fact, we were told, Amsterdam had just initiated a 5pm curfew. No problem, though; we would be back on board by 4. 

The Maritime Museum. The Dutch have been
notable seafarers for centuries. 

Sue bundled up, but it was still chilly.

Examples of Amsterdam's quaint
architecture.

Amsterdam has more than 62 miles of canals,
some 90 islands and 1,500 bridges.

Marijuana is legal here, but they don't want
anybody toking near schoolyards. 

Some of the marijuana-based products 
widely available in stores. We didn't get any.

    The highlight of the tour was a stop at a coffee shop for hot chocolate, aged cheeses and a "bitter ball," which was a soft, deep-fried meatball. Back on board, we showered and changed to get ready for our last evening on board. The AmaSiena was bringing a trio of classical musicians aboard from the troupe known as La Strada, and we were really looking forward to it.

    But around 4:45pm, a half-hour before the start of cocktail hour, the boat's cruise director, a young woman from the Transylvania region of Romania, came on the intercom to tell us that due to the city's 5pm curfew, the boat would not be allowed to hold the cocktail hour or the show, and dinner would have to be served in our cabins. We sat there in stunned disbelief. Outside in the corridor came the sound of prowling, cursing passengers. About twenty minutes later, another announcement: the captain, after consultation with AmaWaterways headquarters, had decided to defy the curfew. All curtains in the lounge and the dining room would be closed, the gangplank to the pier would be pulled, guards would be posted, and the cocktail hour and concert were on! Cheers rang throughout the ship.

Our entertainment was a magical hour of music

from La Strada, featuring a Lithuanian violinist,

a Russian guitarist and a Portuguese violinist. You

can here some of it here.

     As we sat in the lounge enjoying a drink and the wonderful music, I couldn't help looking past the musicians to the entry to the lounge amidships. Just beyond that was the entry door to the boat. At any minute, I expected to hear the distinctive up-down wail of sirens, followed by the sound of boots on concrete and then shouts and pounding on the door. It was like being inside a World War II movie.

    But the sirens never wailed, the boat was left alone, and a fine time was had by all. The American passengers were a merry bunch, shaking the captain's hand, giving high-fives to each other. The crew, most of whom were Eastern Europeans, were puzzled by our behavior. Our server, a young Ukrainian woman, asked us, "You Americans, you defy authority?" "When we have to," we said. 

    

Tuesday, December 2 -- Amsterdam to Minneapolis and home

    There was one final example of the madness that COVID had visited upon Europe. After being tested by the Germans in Cologne and found negative, we'd been given certificates and were told that we'd have to present these at customs in Amsterdam in order to leave the country without going into quarantine. But at Schiphol, nobody asked for them. Sue offered hers at the customs desk and the guy just shook his head and waved us through. Likewise at customs in Minneapolis. Nobody cared. 

     Our return flight and drive home were uneventful, and we were left to contemplate our experience in Europe. History will determine whether or not all these COVID restrictions really did any good, but there is no doubt but that they came close to spoiling the cruise for everyone. Certainly the Christmas markets were severely impacted. It wasn't necessarily a hardship to have to wear a mask everywhere, but having to carry credentials at all times when not on board the ship got to be tiresome. You never knew who might ask to see them, and like the movies, we were wary of hearing, "Your papers...are not in order. You must come with us." Americans aren't used to that; it's what people in other countries have to do, where liberty doesn't reign supreme as it does here. 

    But AmaWaterways got high marks from us and our fellow passengers. The food was great, the boat was first-class all the way and so was the service. We will definitely sail with the line again. 

    Having said that, it was oh so good to get home.